A strikingly good looking arbor with a built-in bench

Fit your table-mounted switch with a finger-joint piece. See the how-to article on this convenient piece on page 7 and 8. At that point, defeat finger joints over the miter-cut closures of the curve top segments and over the best finishes of the uprights. (We cut 1„"- thick piece stock initially to check the settings.) Crosscut the uprights to conclusive length.

Clamp a board estimating approxi-mately ‡×4×72" to one edge of your workbench. Presently, dry-clip four curve top sections together in the arrangement appeared in the coaxing Laying Out the Arch Top on page 5. (For photograph clearness, we recolored the sheets used to adjust the fragments for clipping.) Check the fit. Keep in mind, on the off chance that you trim these four portions, you'll have to do likewise for the staying four to keep both curve best the same correct shape.

Let's begin:

cut the curve top seg-ments and curve uprights to the sizes recorded in the Bill of Materials in addition to 1" long. (We cut our pieces from 1„"- thick cedar deck sheets. On the off chance that your stock is thicker, you'll have to plane it to 1„" thick to work with a finger-joint switch bit. Redwood, mahogany, white oak, or teak would likewise function admirably for this professional ject. We likewise suggest cutting a cou-ple additional curve top sections. They'll prove to be useful when testing the finger-joint piece setup.) Using the Arch-Top Segment drawing for reference, miter-cut the curve top portions to length. (We test-slice scrap stock initially to confirm an exact 22.5° miter-cut.)

Brace a bit of the piece to the best surface of your bandsaw table. Position and cinch the piece to the bandsaw table so the bandsaw cutting edge lines up with within checked curve on the curve clear.

Now, as appeared in Photo E, gradually encourage the clear into the cutting edge, hold-ing the best angled edge against the bended piece. Keep these two pieces flush while cutting the whole base edge of the clear. At long last, sand the base edge of the clear smooth.

Using a couple of sawhorses with additional long tops, paste and clasp the uprights to the curve tops.

Sand the curves, and cinch them together surface-to-surface with the edges flush. Stamp the gap centerpoints on the curve where dimensioned on the Arch illustration. Penetrate a ¸" shank opening through both curves at each check. Isolate the curve es and countersink the shank openings on the front side of the front curve and on the posterior of the back curve.

Glue and clip the sections together. Place waxed paper between your workbench and the portions at each paste joint to keep the curve top from being stuck to your work-seat. Wipe off the overabundance stick with a clammy fabric.

After the paste has dried (we utilized Titebond II and left the curve top pieces clipped up overnight), sand the joints smooth. Utilize a hamper to check two bends on the braced together curve top as dimensioned on the Laying Out the Arch Top attracting and demonstrated.

Bandsaw or jigsaw the curves' best to shape. Spare no less than one segment of scrap—you'll utilize it later. Presently, precisely sand to the line with a circle sander or convenient belt sander to wrap up the highest point of the curve.